Initial Set-up
Initial Set-up
My setup, QS Motor 205 50H V3 Motor 3000W, F24-120 Controller with the latest Blue Tooth Module, 24S 20Ahr Lipo Pack. I believe that I've wired everything correctly. When running the app, I'm able to connect to the controller, battery voltage displayed on the dashboard is accurate. I have the throttle plugged into the blue tooth module and when I twist the throttle I can watch the throttle position change up and down on the dashboard display. The hub motor however doesn't run at all? I'm hoping it's simply my error in programming.
Any Help?
TY, Daniel
Any Help?
TY, Daniel
Re: Initial Set-up
QS Motor 205 50H V3 Motor 3000W, F24-120 Controller with the new Blue Tooth Module 2.0, 24S 20Ahr Lipo Pack, updated firmware today.
I got lucky. I kept trying anything and everything clearing cache and data within the PV app, then re-entering my program settings. Then I happened to find one the the motor hall sensor leads dislocated. I relocated that and Bam my bike sprung to life!
I've a got WOT issue though, and I had not experienced this when testing while my bike was up on the stand. It was only when I attempted my first test ride that I got WOT twice
Luckily I've got good brakes and shut off the key switch.
I've got the throttle plugged into the new blue tooth module 2.0 and my bike's back up on the stand. There is an alternate plug for the throttle, maybe that will solve it?
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Daniel
https://imgur.com/a/b6DRXbj
I got lucky. I kept trying anything and everything clearing cache and data within the PV app, then re-entering my program settings. Then I happened to find one the the motor hall sensor leads dislocated. I relocated that and Bam my bike sprung to life!
I've a got WOT issue though, and I had not experienced this when testing while my bike was up on the stand. It was only when I attempted my first test ride that I got WOT twice
Luckily I've got good brakes and shut off the key switch. I've got the throttle plugged into the new blue tooth module 2.0 and my bike's back up on the stand. There is an alternate plug for the throttle, maybe that will solve it?
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Daniel
https://imgur.com/a/b6DRXbj
Re: Initial Set-up
Please plug in the throttle directly to the controller (bypassing the Bluetooth). That will fix it.
hdserv wrote: ↑Sat Nov 30, 2019 11:39 amQS Motor 205 50H V3 Motor 3000W, F24-120 Controller with the new Blue Tooth Module 2.0, 24S 20Ahr Lipo Pack, updated firmware today.
I got lucky. I kept trying anything and everything clearing cache and data within the PV app, then re-entering my program settings. Then I happened to find one the the motor hall sensor leads dislocated. I relocated that and Bam my bike sprung to life!
I've a got WOT issue though, and I had not experienced this when testing while my bike was up on the stand. It was only when I attempted my first test ride that I got WOT twice
I've got the throttle plugged into the new blue tooth module 2.0 and my bike's back up on the stand. There is an alternate plug for the throttle, maybe that will solve it?
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Daniel
https://imgur.com/a/b6DRXbj
Re: Initial Set-up
My WOT issue is now solved after relocating the throttle wiring and plugging directly to the controller. Thank Very Much!
Now it seems that my programming efforts are having little to no effect on my bike's performance. After programming, Start-up is and can be very smooth.
Regen seems to be working properly when I have it turned on.
It makes no difference however what position My 3 speed switch is in, what % torque/rpm setting I'm testing, At least for now I'm unable to go faster than about 25mph.
Any Help?
Daniel
Now it seems that my programming efforts are having little to no effect on my bike's performance. After programming, Start-up is and can be very smooth.
Regen seems to be working properly when I have it turned on.
It makes no difference however what position My 3 speed switch is in, what % torque/rpm setting I'm testing, At least for now I'm unable to go faster than about 25mph.
Any Help?
Daniel
Re: Initial Set-up
Please attach a screenshot of your programmed values (from the Programming screen).
Also, please explain how you connected the three-way switch.
Also, please explain how you connected the three-way switch.
hdserv wrote: ↑Mon Jan 06, 2020 2:12 pmMy WOT issue is now solved after relocating the throttle wiring and plugging directly to the controller. Thank Very Much!
Now it seems that my programming efforts are having little to no effect on my bike's performance. After programming, Start-up is and can be very smooth.
Regen seems to be working properly when I have it turned on.
It makes no difference however what position My 3 speed switch is in, what % torque/rpm setting I'm testing, At least for now I'm unable to go faster than about 25mph.
Any Help?
Daniel
Re: Initial Set-up
I checked and double checked the wiring of my 3 speed switch.
It appears my wiring is correct (Though, there are splices and may be suspect).
Wires from switch, green low speed, black ground, red over-speed.
Wires from controller, grey low speed, black ground, blue over speed.
It appears my wiring is correct (Though, there are splices and may be suspect).
Wires from switch, green low speed, black ground, red over-speed.
Wires from controller, grey low speed, black ground, blue over speed.
- Attachments
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- IMG_6825.JPG (61.46 KiB) Viewed 44676 times
Last edited by hdserv on Mon Jan 06, 2020 6:48 pm, edited 4 times in total.
Re: Initial Set-up
I checked and double checked the wiring of my 3 speed switch.
It appears my wiring is correct (Though, there are splices and may be suspect).
Wires from switch, green low speed, black ground, red over-speed.
Wires from controller, grey low speed, black ground, blue over speed.
https://imgur.com/a/VKLxevR
It appears my wiring is correct (Though, there are splices and may be suspect).
Wires from switch, green low speed, black ground, red over-speed.
Wires from controller, grey low speed, black ground, blue over speed.
https://imgur.com/a/VKLxevR
Re: Initial Set-up
I checked again today the switching action with a meter and yes I've got the 3 speed switch wired correctly. Still, I'm unable observe any difference when switching between speeds. 
Also I'm having an intermittent challenge connecting and programming via the bluetooth 2.0. Sometimes it connects very easily other times I can't connect no matter what I try. It always recognizes the bluetooth module however and still won't sometimes connect??
For the first time I rode my bike about 15 miles today. Hot off the charger, 100.8V my bike flys, 50+mph. The bike performs admirably till about 96-97V when I start losing power and then slows, slows and then dies altogether below 95V. Good thing I have pedals as I needed them to get me back that last mile.
What am I doing wrong?
Any Help?
Daniel
Also I'm having an intermittent challenge connecting and programming via the bluetooth 2.0. Sometimes it connects very easily other times I can't connect no matter what I try. It always recognizes the bluetooth module however and still won't sometimes connect??
For the first time I rode my bike about 15 miles today. Hot off the charger, 100.8V my bike flys, 50+mph. The bike performs admirably till about 96-97V when I start losing power and then slows, slows and then dies altogether below 95V. Good thing I have pedals as I needed them to get me back that last mile.
What am I doing wrong?
Any Help?
Daniel
Re: Initial Set-up
Update:
I recharged the battery and then was able to realize full power again (50+ mph). After reconnecting and changing the program setting I lowered the low voltage cutoff and found I had full power all the while riding another 10 miles. I wanted to find out at what voltage I might begin to lose power. I was really having more fun than on any of my other ebikes.
Regrettably, I decided to make one last run, and in my exuberance I prolly burned up the motor (even though the motor wasn't what I consider extremely hot). On acceleration The bike stalled out and made a really bad grinding noise and then nothing. I can't really pedal the bike as the rear wheel has some measure of rolling resistance that wasn't there prior.The battery got to about 39C
It's not the controller I suspect as I'm able to connect and make program changes.
It'll be at least a month before we get home again and I can get the bike back up on the stand.
Tomorrow I'l check to see if the motor windings are open.
The clip below was taken just prior to my ill fated run.
https://vimeo.com/384101297
I recharged the battery and then was able to realize full power again (50+ mph). After reconnecting and changing the program setting I lowered the low voltage cutoff and found I had full power all the while riding another 10 miles. I wanted to find out at what voltage I might begin to lose power. I was really having more fun than on any of my other ebikes.
Regrettably, I decided to make one last run, and in my exuberance I prolly burned up the motor (even though the motor wasn't what I consider extremely hot). On acceleration The bike stalled out and made a really bad grinding noise and then nothing. I can't really pedal the bike as the rear wheel has some measure of rolling resistance that wasn't there prior.The battery got to about 39C
It's not the controller I suspect as I'm able to connect and make program changes.
It'll be at least a month before we get home again and I can get the bike back up on the stand.
Tomorrow I'l check to see if the motor windings are open.
The clip below was taken just prior to my ill fated run.
https://vimeo.com/384101297
Re: Initial Set-up
Yes, it's starts reducing power when the battery voltage drops closer to the cutoff limit. That's to prevent the power cutoff under hard acceleration. You can change that behavior by lowering the cutoff limit.
It sounds like the controller phases may be shorted, not the motor. You can disconnect the phases from the motor and the battery and check each phase for a short to positive or negative battery. There should be no continuity.
It sounds like the controller phases may be shorted, not the motor. You can disconnect the phases from the motor and the battery and check each phase for a short to positive or negative battery. There should be no continuity.
hdserv wrote: ↑Fri Jan 10, 2020 2:31 pmUpdate:
I recharged the battery and then was able to realize full power again (50+ mph). After reconnecting and changing the program setting I lowered the low voltage cutoff and found I had full power all the while riding another 10 miles. I wanted to find out at what voltage I might begin to lose power. I was really having more fun than on any of my other ebikes.
Regrettably, I decided to make one last run, and in my exuberance I prolly burned up the motor (even though the motor wasn't what I consider extremely hot). On acceleration The bike stalled out and made a really bad grinding noise and then nothing. I can't really pedal the bike as the rear wheel has some measure of rolling resistance that wasn't there prior.The battery got to about 39C
It's not the controller I suspect as I'm able to connect and make program changes.
It'll be at least a month before we get home again and I can get the bike back up on the stand.
Tomorrow I'l check to see if the motor windings are open.
The clip below was taken just prior to my ill fated run.
https://vimeo.com/384101297